<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">
<channel>
<title>The Frontier Sixshooter Community Message Board - Thank you.</title>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/</link>
<description>The Frontier Sixshooter Community Private Message Board</description>
<language>en</language>
<item>
<title>Thank you. (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.png" alt=":-)" /></p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36759</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36759</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2014 17:03:48 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Drago</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>Link to CB post (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?263899-pre-1950-K-frame-reloading-help">http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?263899-pre-1950-K-frame-reloading-help</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36756</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36756</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2014 13:34:42 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Cherokee</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>You posted this over on Cast Boolits (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Link please, Charles.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36751</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36751</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2014 02:42:53 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Drago</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>You posted this over on Cast Boolits (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>and got some sound advice. Some of it came from no less than Ed Harris under a different name. I would take it, for if anybody know the facts on this matter it would be him. If you don't know who Ed is, he is a small arms mechanical engineer, who worked at Aberdeen proving ground, them was a technical writer for the American Rifleman and then spend many years heading up quality control at Ruger. He understands these things the way very few of us do.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36739</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36739</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2014 20:12:22 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Charles</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>pre 1950 K frame reloading help (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Smith &amp; Wesson revolvers made before 1936 would have the most concern were these my guns. Sometime in 1935 Smith &amp; Wesson started to heat treat their cylinders. This was when they came out with the 357 magnum and probably had something to do with why they chose this time period to start doing it. Of course as always, technology evolution plays a part also.  The point is, those guns prior to this time period did not have heat treated cylinders so I ere on the side of mild. The ones made afterwards should be fine with regular 38 special loads if the guns are in good repair.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36737</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36737</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2014 15:46:46 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>jgt</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>Keep your alloy soft Rob (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>it may lead the bores, but it will be easier on these old gentlemen.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36736</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36736</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2014 07:37:57 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Miles</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>pre 1950 K frame reloading help (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You might want to try 3.5 grains of Bullseye also. Don't use too hard of alloy as these have thin barrel forcing cones.  I&quot;ve had one crack but it was made in 1915. I always suspected it was from using a &quot;hard cast bullet&quot;.  Started using swaged jobs or wheel weights after that.</p>
<p>Bob</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36732</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36732</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2014 00:54:31 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Bob Hatfield</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>Withoput checking that sounds like they are within current (reply)</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>reloading manuals for standard .38 spl loads. Are you using a up to date reloading manual? If not please do so.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36730</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36730</guid>
<pubDate>Sun, 28 Dec 2014 18:02:29 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>Rob Leahy</dc:creator>
</item>
<item>
<title>pre 1950 K frame reloading help</title>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi guys , I require your advice, I am planning on doing bulk reloading for my 1930- 1948 S&amp;W k frame using the Lyman 357446 Thompson SWC bullet with the AOL  of 1.457 utilizing the lower crimping groove.<br />
 The revolvers are of following a 1932 M&amp;P, a early post war commercial victory, a WW2 <br />
Victory &amp; a 1948 C series M&amp;P snubby.<br />
All revolvers are safe to fire and are in very good to excellent condition.<br />
The plan is to have a quality reloads with the same point of aim as 158 gr factory police loads. <br />
I plan I using 4 to 4.4 grs of Unique, I am concerned if these loads may be too much for<br />
these vintage revolvers, any suggestions would be appreciated.</p>
<p>Happy Holidays,</p>
]]></content:encoded>
<link>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36729</link>
<guid>https://sixshootercommunity.com/forum/index.php?id=36729</guid>
<pubDate>Sun, 28 Dec 2014 16:50:54 +0000</pubDate>
<dc:creator>rob, clarkstown , ny</dc:creator>
</item>
</channel>
</rss>
